Everybody in Dallas is talking about the $20 million steakhouse, and don’t worry, we’ll get there, too. But there is plenty of other interesting stuff happening on the scene, and I have some new recommendations, too. This monthly news roundup is selective, filtered through my lens as a dining critic. This is the news that’s most interesting to me, along with commentary and mini-reviews.
Meal of the month: the summer menu at Mot Hai Ba
After talking with Peja Krstic about his plans for a new Bishop Arts bistro, I got hungry to see what he’s cooking this summer. The answer is a globe-hopping menu that features tempura squash blossoms filled with the kind of pork-and-shrimp stuffing you’d find in a dumpling; an onionpalooza of crab-stuffed leeks baked in leek butter and topped with crispy shallots; and a salad of lettuce, celery, Texas grapefruit segments, blue crab, and pine nuts. Best of all, though, was a lamb neck steak grilled over binchotan charcoal until smokey and crisp. The neck cut was intensely gamey, too, which I loved: lamb should taste like lamb! It’s my favorite red meat, but it’s hardly ever as good as this. The summer menu is vegetarian- and (especially) pescatarian-friendly.
News of the month
The Michelin Guide has sent notification emails to the Dallas restaurants it wants to recommend with stars, the Bib Gourmand (a budget dining award), and unstarred directory listings. If you’re a restaurateur reading this, check your darn email!
Some big closures this month: Oak Cliff taco spot Trompo closed (for real this time) and owner Luis Olvera is looking for work in another industry; 24-year-old Oak Lawn sushi restaurant Steel shut its doors, as first reported by a Reddit user; and Cooper’s Meat Market posted a sign saying that it was going on vacation, but now has a new sign up saying it is “closed till further notice.”
Where to go in September
Half Price Books and Vector Brewing
What do these two businesses have in common, besides my fondness for visiting both on a Saturday? They now both serve pastries from La Casita Bakeshop. Vector has a whole breakfast program, in fact, including chilaquiles and coffee. La Casita staffs its own coffee shop at the flagship Half Price location; our Holland Murphy interviewed owner Maricsa Trejo on the first morning of service.
Nuri Steakhouse
Everyone is curious about the $20 million Uptown steakhouse with Korean flavors. I’m most intrigued by dishes, like tartare and gumbo, that are available in both Western and Korean recipes. Three people who’ve dined at the steakhouse already have given me reports: one that it is incredible, one that it is pretty good, and one that it does “absolutely not” look like a $20 million buildout. Given that it’s less than two weeks into a 20-year lease, Nuri has time to find a groove. Oh, and please don’t order any of the back-vintage Ridge wines from the wine list. I call dibs.
Good Side Pizza
The new Deep Ellum pizza pub promises to give the neighborhood a low-key hangout that will contrast with the high-dollar “clubstaurants” arriving just a block or two north. Its pizza menu will use the expertise of Bujar Hajro, leader of one of North Texas’ original Albanian pizza families.
Las Almas Rotas, Rayo, and Whiskeys
The State Fair of Texas has a negative effect on nearby businesses, which lose their parking spots to the Fair and lose their regulars to fears that the neighborhood will be too busy. Most fairgoers are too busy trading tickets for corn dogs to walk across the street, so these three bars are likely to be emptier than usual during the season. That’s especially tough on Rayo, which just opened at the end of August with a food menu designed by ultra-creative chef Josh Harmon. Ride DART down to Fair Park one night, walk the opposite direction, and give these spots some love. Tacos at Almas are a good celiac-friendly meal.
Starship Bagel
Until September 30, Starship is celebrating the release of Wall Street Journal reporter and bagel superfan Evan Gershkovich by adding the former Russian political prisoner’s go-to order to its menu: “an everything bagel piled high with scallion cream cheese, tomatoes, onions, and capers.” Lox optional. Starship is donating 10 percent of sales of the Gershkovich special to the Committee to Protect Journalists.
Sushi By Scratch
The pop-up omakase menu in the Adolphus Hotel is now permanently established, with a long-term home in its eighth-floor hotel room. A recent remodel brought about a redesigned sushi bar area, better lighting, moodier colors, and room for an improved drink selection. Our Kathy Wise visited after the remodel was finished and had a blast.
Namo
Speaking of omakase sushi: Namo now has two omakase menus available every night, an all-nigiri offering for $135 and a “signature Namokase” with sashimi and appetizers for $195. (For comparison, Sushi By Scratch’s all-nigiri offering is $198 including mandatory service charge.) These new offerings are in addition to Namo’s once-a-month omakase dinners and its great-value lunch tasting.
Will Goodwins be open for lunch yet?
Last we heard, in Eater, was that they’d be ready “any day now.” I suggest staring longingly in the windows until someone lets you in for a pity sandwich.
Even Coast and Perch
These two new restaurants serve similar all-American menus of steaks, burgers, pastas, and seafood. Even Coast in Addison has more of an ocean focus, while Perch, at Inwood Road and Lovers Lane, deploys a pizza oven and the now-ubiquitous steak frites. The Addison restaurant comes from chef Omar Flores, while Perch is a more casual revision of Lynae Fearing and Tracy Rathbun’s former restaurant in the same space, Dea.
Four one-sentence restaurant reviews
Though the prices at Nikki Greek Bistro & Lounge look high, the portions are enormous and you could happily bring home another meal (or two) of leftovers. Gas station counter Taqueria Charly in Irving serves pre-wrapped trompo breakfast tacos, not mind-blowing but very convenient on a trip to DFW Airport. I’m still delighting in the well-balanced sauce, generous toppings, and crispy crust of the supreme from Motor City Pizza. The highlight of this month’s visit to Lucia was a super-savory rigatoni with lamb neck ragu, olives, and gobs of Stracciatella cheese (followed by an especially good Paper Plane co*cktail made with Cardamaro instead of Amaro Nonino).
Four upcoming bar and restaurant teasers
Hugo’s Seafood Bar, in the Bishop Arts District, is shooting for a late October opening. It’s a collaboration between two Hugos: chef Galván and bar manager Osorio. I ran into Osorio in mid-August, just after he’d gotten city permits to begin remodeling the new restaurant. Galván has cooked or designed menus just about everywhere: Komali, Revolver Taco Lounge, Las Palmas, Xaman Cafe, and Carte Blanche. Osorio is an Oak Cliff bar veteran of Bolsa, Boulevardier, and (most recently) Ladylove Lounge and Sound.
Picadera, the Dominican kitchen that was a beloved brewery pop-up and then a ghost kitchen service, will open a real restaurant in the heart of Deep Ellum, in collaboration with Trinity Cider. A Dominican burger and hard cider sounds like the perfect fall patio meal.
The former Encanto Pops space on West Davis Street will be a new location for local Lao-Thai chain Sweet Rice. Finally, Oak Cliff’s beloved Mexican wine shop Vinito announced in a live Instagram video—from our own Best of Big D event, where they were honorees—that they are also opening a Mexican wine bar soon. Stay tuned.
Required reading
- The Dallas Morning News spent the month catching up with some of our favorite people. Our pick for best specialty market, Ari’s Pantry, is subject of a glowing interview by Claire Ballor. (If you’ve ever talked to Ari, you know he makes for a great interview—and he gives great cooking advice.) And our choice for best Mexican food, Ruins, is featured in a story by Imelda García that tells us more about the life of chef Humberto Lira.
- Amanda Albee dug up a surprising State Fair of Texas fact for Texas Monthly: this is the first year that the Big Tex Choice Awards food nominees went through a taste-test before the contest started. Up through 2023, judging only began after the list of candidates had already been finalized.
- I was in the middle of sending an interview request to Pacheco Taco N Burger, the new kitchen inside Four Corners Brewing Company, when Theressa Velazquez of the Dallas Observer beat me to it with a wonderful conversation with sibling owners Cecilia and Adán Pacheco. My own recommendation is the chorizo smash, which replaces ground beef with an all-chorizo patty.
- Everyone in the food industry is talking about Nuri Steakhouse owner Wan Kim’s comments to DMN reporter Sarah Blaskovich. He’s revised his estimate of the budget he spent building the spot, from $16 million to almost $20 million. As sole owner, he says he doesn’t care if it makes a profit or not and “never thought about our return on investment.” He has a 20-year lease and a private back entrance for VIPs accessing the private dining rooms or the future private social club. If your eyebrow isn’t already raised, check out this description of Kim: “He couldn’t find a restaurant in Dallas owned by a Dallasite that he would be proud to share with friends and business colleagues.” Hey! What’s wrong with Charco Broiler?
- In the Dallas Observer, Hank Vaughn has a very promising report on a new Chinese spot in Plano, Chef Sun’s Noodles and Dumpling, complete with lots of photos. The dumplings sound good, the cumin lamb looks loaded with onions and peppers, and there’s a $10 “beef burrito” that is actually a scallion pancake folded around sliced meat and hoisin sauce.
- Look past the clickbait headline of this handy guide from the DMN’s Imelda García to Dallas’ best pupusas, arepas, and gorditas. She breaks down cooking techniques, interviews chefs, and makes some really good recommendations. (Bonus tip: Meat Papi serves Venezuelan arepas with his smoked brisket and pulled pork on Saturdays.)
- If you thought the August heat was tough on you, try being a taco truck owner. José Ralat interviewed several for Texas Monthly, and it’s an important read. Some business owners have considered closing for a month in high summer, but what would their workers do during that time, and would they come back? Those who stay open risk huge drops in sales—and 118 degree temperatures as they labor over the griddle.
Hot takes
Salt Bae is struggling in Dallas
In case you missed it, I’m now publishing some food news over on FrontBurner, our Old-Twitter-style news feed of things happening around Dallas. (“Old Twitter” here means “things you actually want to see.”) Earlier this month, I disclosed that Nusr-Et, the fancy downtown steakhouse that is part of Salt Bae’s global chain, sold just over $10,000 in beer, wine, and spirits in July. On average, that’s less than two drinks sold per hour of business. I found locations of Torchy’s and PF Chang’s that sold more booze. How the heck is Nusr-Et still open?
My new worst enemy is the Texas-themed restaurant in Montreal’s airport
In August I spent a nice little three-day weekend in Montreal, and I know exactly what you want to hear about: their Texas-themed steakhouse chain, Houston Avenue. I spotted the airport location and snapped a quick picture of their menu. The biggest theme? Mango. You know. People in Houston love their mangos.
The “Houston burger” is topped with Jack Daniel’s caramelized onions, capicola, arugula, tomato—so far so good—and mango barbecue sauce. OK. And—get this—cream cheese. Did someone from Houston disrespect Celine Dion? Does she have a blood feud with Beyoncé?
The crispy chicken tacos are made with fried chicken tenders, coleslaw, pineapple, cheddar and feta cheeses, and “Buffalo maple style hot sauce.” Suddenly my vocabulary tops out at four letters.
The ribs are served with “Louisiana-style mango BBQ glaze.” There’s nothing like a Louisiana mango. They put olives and mozzarella on their nachos and lettuce in their Philly cheesesteak, and they serve their wings with “buffalo ranch vinaigrette,” which they appear to have fused into one single liquid.
Canada was, until the opening of Houston Avenue, considered an ally of the United States. Houston Avenue takes the place of my previous worst enemy, the coronavirus. I caught the virus this weekend. Those chicken tacos sound worse.
What’s coming on SideDish in September
We’ll be filling you in on some great new Indonesian and Punjabi eats, chatting with a viral fried chicken sensation, checking out new sushi in Bishop Arts, and ranking every Dallas-area pastrami sandwich.
Author
Brian Reinhart
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Brian Reinhart became D Magazine's dining critic in 2022 after six years of writing about restaurants for the Dallas Observer and the Dallas Morning News.
